May angels smile upon you For a single heart now beats Where once there had been two The Lord has brought you to this day
May your days be filled with laughter
For a man shall be a woman's heart
Return to Poem List
|
|
March 1894 "The Art of Dressing a Bride" Author: Isabel A. Mallon
Of all people in the world the French are the ones who most positively combine sentiment and frocks. The rich lace, the costly jewel, the much-trimmed gown never belongs to the unmarried woman until she has passed youth. Even on the very day of her wedding, the French girl, while she is essentially a bride, always has in her costume the suggestion of youth and innocence. The material especially dedicated to the bride is white satin, heavy and lustrous; occasionally some caprice of fashion may show itself on one of these gowns, as has the band of sable around the edge this winter. But the artist in dress disapproves of any such departure from regulation rules, the first one of which is that the bride shall be all in white. White silk, white crepe, white cloth, and some of the very thin stuffs are occasionally chosen for the wedding gown, but personally I can fully sympathize with the girl who chooses fewer frocks in her trousseau, yet elects that on her wedding day she shall really look what she is, a bride. With her white gown come the white tulle veil and the orange blossoms. There are some things that a bride must remember:
her bodice must be high in the neck; her sleeves reach quite to her wrists,
and her gown must fall in full, unbroken folds that show the richness of
the material, and there must not be even a suggestion of such frivolities
as frills or ribbons of any kind. The design for a white satin wedding
dress which is shown in Illustration No. 1 is that approved by the greatest
and most artistic of dressmakers. It has about it not only the air of girlishness
that should be there, but, by the disposition of the rich material, makes
prominent the elegance of toilette that will be permitted to the young
matron.
**** "The Art of Dressing a Bride" Author: Isabel A. Mallon Section I: The Dainty Wedding Gown
Very heavy white satin is used for this gown, which is quite plain in front, but has a flare about the lower part, the result of there being two full plaits on each side of the broad gore. In the back there are two double box-plaits that fall far down, spread out and extend through the train which is very nearly a yard long. The bodice is a pointed one, laced in the back; is high in the neck, and has over its white satin collar, folds of white tulle caught at one side with a tiny bunch of orange blossoms. The sleeves have enormous puffs of the satin that reach quite to the elbows, and below that they fit in to the arms, and each comes down in a point over the hand. Folds of tulle outline this point. Over each shoulder is an elaborate epaulette of orange blossoms. The hair is arranged quite high and pinned closely and very firmly to the head; and the veil, which is fastened on under a wreath of orange blossoms, extends to the edge of the skirt in front and over the entire length of the train at the back. It is necessary in arranging this veil to remember that while it is worn over the face going up the aisle of the church, it is thrown back after the ceremony, so that the flowers are placed in such a way that the wreath is at its best when the veil is off the face. It is the duty of the maid of honor to throw the veil back, and while, of course, she must be careful in doing this, whoever arranges it must be equally careful in pinning it firmly. The gloves worn are white undressed kid; the stockings are white silk, and the slippers white satin. Instead of a bouquet there is carried a white satin prayer-book mounted in silver. Custom permits a bride to wear the wedding present given her by the bridegroom, but the student of the art of dress claims that the bride should wear no jewelry unless, indeed, it should be a string of pearls, the gems dedicated to girlhood. At the receptions or dinners given to the bride after the wedding she wears her wedding dress, that is, to all those given within three months after her marriage. But the orange blossoms must never be worn after the ceremony. ****** The Ladies' Home Journal March 1894 "The Art of Dressing a Bride" Author: Isabel A. Mallon Section III: One of Gainsborough's Maids
In Illustration No. 2 is shown a bridesmaid who
might have stepped out of one of Gainsborough's pictures, for her costume
and its combination of colors are historically correct. Her gown, which
just escapes the ground, is of white chiffon made rather full, with a round
waist, over which is worn a broad fichu of fine white gauze. This is crossed
in Marie Antoinette fashion, its ends being hidden in a full sash of pale
blue gauze drawn about the waist and tied in long loops and ends. The hat
is a large black felt one, caught up on one side under a bunch of pale
blue feathers. The gloves and slippers are white and so is the bouquet.
****** The Ladies' Home Journal March 1894 "The Art of Dressing a Bride" Author: Isabel A. Mallon Section II: The Attendant Maids
The maids who attend the bride are given greater license in the way of dress than is permitted to her, and quaint costumes and fanciful effects are liked for them, so that the group may form a pretty picture. Just now either chiffon or cloth is fancied for the dress of the bridesmaid. Pinks, blues or Nile greens are liked, and the modes from centuries gone by are seized upon and literally developed up to date. In almost every instance at a church wedding the bridesmaids wear large picture hats, unless, indeed, they follow the fashion that prevails on the Continent and appear in short veils, it being considered in bad taste for them to appear in church with their heads uncovered. ***** The Ladies' Home Journal March 1894 "The Art of Dressing a Bride" Author: Isabel A. Mallon Section V: Some Wedding Etiquette
The maid of honor relieves the bride of her bouquet at the altar, hands it to the first bridesmaid when it is time for her to assist the bride with her glove, or to throw back the veil; later on she takes it again and presents it to the bride just before she takes her husband's arm and turns from the altar. The bride who is wise wears a somewhat loose glove on her left hand, so that the removal of it is a very easy matter. A bride always gives her bridesmaids their gloves and usually presents them with some little souvenir of the wedding. The bridegroom usually gives each a piece of jewelry in which his and the bride's initials are combined. He presents the best man and ushers with their gloves, ties, and very often their scarfpins. Custom has made it proper for the bridegroom to wear a gardenia in his buttonhole, the best man an orchid, and the ushers bouquets either of white violets, or some other small white flower. In entering the church, the ushers come first, then the bridesmaids, walking two by two, then the maid of honor alone, and then the bride on the arm of her nearest male relative. In coming out the bride and groom are first, the maid of honor next with the best man, and usually the bridesmaids, each walking with an usher. I say usually because sometimes the bridesmaids walk out together as they came in, with the ushers just behind them. ***** The Ladies' Home Journal March 1894 "The Art of Dressing a Bride" Author: Isabel A. Mallon Section IV: The Other Bridesmaid
Narrow bands of golden brown fur are much liked
when cloth costumes are worn by the bride's attendants. Combinations especially
fancied are white cloth with very dark brown fur, pink with a lighter brown,
and pale green with a lighter brown. Probably the last combination is the
most fashionable. The toilette of the second figure in our illustration
shows a maid who is to attend another bride; it is an evidence of the beauty
possible with cloth and fur and shows how the faint green and the golden
brown come together. The skirt is made after the fashion of an ordinary
walking skirt, and it has about the lower edge a two-inch band of the fur.
The coat basque, which reaches almost to the knees, has double Robespierre
revers, the under ones being of golden brown satin, and the outer ones
of the cloth finished with a narrow piping of fur. The sleeves have full,
high puffs of cloth and deep cuffs of fur. The high collar is overlaid
by a stock of golden brown ribbon. The bonnet, which is a very small poke,
is made of green cloth like the dress, and has three mink heads in front,
while around the low crown are wreathed two mink tails. With this is worn
a deep veil of golden brown net with chenille dots upon it, the fine material
being edged with a narrow piping of fur. The bonnet ties are of golden
brown velvet. The gloves are of undressed light tan kid, and the low shoes
match them.
***** A beautiful bride in a white or ivory wedding
gown is what we think of when we picture a traditional bride. This wasn't
alway so. You may be surprised to learn that in the 1800's, it was common
for brides to wear everyday colors such as blue, pink, green, dark brown,
burgandy and, yes, even black, rather than white and ivory. It was much
more practical for a bride of the average class to wear darker colors for
a variety of reasons. One major reason being money. Prudent brides planned
ahead - a wedding gown could be worn for many occasions, not just on their
"special day." The wedding gown was a lady's "best dress" after the ceremony
and it was much more practical to have a darker colored dress than a white
or ivory dress. Let's take a minute to imagine the time and effort involved
in keeping the hemline of a white gown clean! Dust and dirt and no modern
conveniences! Just think about what a white hemline would look like at
the end of a day! Laundering was a big consideration, unless, of course,
the lady was from a prominate family who had servants available to handle
the laundry.
There were still many wedding gowns from the late 1830's and the early 1840's that were made in a soft ivory color. These gowns were very simplistic in design and were not heavily embelished. Oftentimes, the veil was the most elaborate trim added to the gown. Wedding veils were a very important part of the wedding attire, so many times the veil was the fanciest item that a lady would wear. White began to gain popularity by the 1870's, and by the 1880's most women wore the soft whites and ivories of the time; however, it was still common to see ladies wed in their "Sunday Best." You will find many early photos of ladies in beautiful white gowns, buy you will find many more photos of ladies in their finest dark colored dress, with and without, ivory veils. Many brides wore their wedding dresses as traveling gowns after the wedding took place. Couples were often married mid-morning with a traditional wedding breakfast and then left for a special honeymoon spot. Best of luck to you in your journey back in time . . . |
they often visualize a time of romance, chivalry and gentler ideas. It is no wonder then that many couples consider a Victorian theme for their own wedding. Whether they decide to be authentic to history or simply want to capture the feeling of romance that the era evokes, Victorian themed weddings are quite popular. This article focuses on the theme of Victorian Elegance and has tips and ideas scattered throughout for those of you planning this type of wedding. The Setting It is important
to note that many
Centerpieces Centerpieces
in a Victorian themed
Another look
that conveys the feel of
Ivy can easily
replace the spanish moss
General Resources Victorian resources
abound on the web.
Laurie's
Victoriana Page
Victoriana
Victorian Wedding Resources The
Victorian Wedding
Victorian
Wedding Etiquette
Victorian
Weddings Resource Page
Vintage
Wedding
|